Monday, March 29, 2010

L's and R's

L’s and r’s here are basically interchangeable. It cracks me up. It is hard when listening to a word to distinguish how it would be spelled just by how it is pronounced. A word that you swear would be spelled with an L, has an R, and vice versa. But not every word. To most people, I am Arena. Even though I am careful to enunciate the L!


Just below the office, there is a dry cleaner. Which I think is just a laundry place, and not actually a dry cleaner. However, on one side of their sign, it says ‘dry cleaner’ and on the other side, ‘dly cleaner’. Hmmmm… Maybe they are just appeasing both sides of the argument?

Sunday, March 21, 2010

No Medium Play!

To borrow a phrase from Christina – there is no medium play here – in anything! Things can go from fine to catastrophic in a moment – and often do. There is either nothing, or excessive amounts.


Just to illustrate, here are some examples from my daily life.

Water – we either do not have any (as in, it gets turned off, and doesn’t come back for a few hours, or 5 days) or it explodes out of the faucet. You turn on the water, even just a tiny bit, and the water explodes with such force, that your pants get soaked. You flush the toilet, and when the tank is refilling, it sounds like someone is trying to fill it with a firehose, and there is the backsplash that you have to take into account as well.

Sun – I am used to getting sun-burnt. Always have, always will. But I am also used to the fact that when I get sun-burnt once, it turns into somewhat of a tan, and I really don’t get fried after that. I may get a little pink. But not fried. Here – I get fried, over and over and over again. I actually have tan arms. They have good color – for me! And today – we walked home from a town called Ndejje – about an hour. I got fried – on top of my tan. No medium play!

And lastly – rain. We have gone about 10 days without rain. But, when the rains started again, it is like this massive downpour. It lasts 5-10 minutes. Up to an hour tops, but it is the hardest rain – the most intense drops for that time. There isn’t a medium play – no sprinkles, no drizzle – either downpour or nothing!

There are so many more examples here, but those are a few that I have noticed on a daily basis to illustrate. So many more to share…

Kasubi Tombs

This last week, a very important cultural emblem in Uganda was destroyed. The Kasubi tombs are the burial site of four kabakas (kings) of the Buganda Kingdom. The Buganda Kingdom is the largest surviving kingdom in all of Africa. There is still a kabaka who rules over the kingdom. He does not hold political power in the country, but he does still hold a lot of sway over the Baganda people.

On Tuesday, the Kasubi tombs were burned down. It is suspected that it was arson, though no one really knows. The Kasubi tombs hold so much cultural importance to the Baganda people, so this was a devastating loss. Thousands of people turned up at the tombs, the kabaka called for a week of mourning, and many religious and political leaders have called for funds to be raised to rebuild the tombs (even though many of the cultural items within were lost). However, there was also unrest. 3 or 4 people were killed, and many more were taken to the hospital. There was small scale rioting, and the people around the tomb tried to keep the President (Museveni) from visiting the site. Thankfully, there was not full scale rioting as there was last September, but cultural/tribal tensions run deep, and this event exposed that those tensions are still there

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Ghosts and Demons

There is still a lot of belief here in ghosts and demons.
Today I saw a headline in one of the 2 main national newspapers (I haven't read the article yet, but planning on it) about the Bujagali dam - this is a dam that is going to dam up part of the Nile. It has been in the works for over 10 years. Just below the headline, it said: Ghosts attack dam workers.

No joke!

I am really curious to read the article. I can't believe that is in one of the main, most respected newspapers.

And then - last night, Miriam, a good friend, was telling me about a girl that lives near our office. She is about 15 years old. She was talking about how her father was a really poor man, and how when he was struggling and struggling, he decided to make a deal with the devil. So - he sold the soul of his daughter to the devil. I guess she is a very beautiful girl as well. I have not seen here, though i am really curious now.

The demons do not possess her all the time, but when they do, she sleeps with 4 or 5 men a day. She was talking about how her mom has taken her to all kinds of pastors, churches and such to get the demons out of her. They all help, but when they go back home, the demons come back and take her over again. They laugh at the mom and tell her that the girl belongs to them!

And - the father is now a very rich man working in Kenya.

I would love to hear more about this story, and meet the family. I wonder if talking about demons is a way of explaining away behavior problems. Where we would put someone on drugs, or label them as ADHD or bi-polar or something, they seek an explanation based on God, the devil and demons.

To Play Sex...

English here is interesting. A lot of it is more British than American, which isn't hard to understand, as they were a British colony until the 1960s. Their education system still has colonial structure, and is definitely a remnant from that time.

But there are some interesting sayings. I think it is mostly that someone misunderstood how it was said, said it a different way, and it caught on.

You know how we say 'How's it going?', well they say 'How's the going?'
And then there's 'How has been your day?' instead of 'How's you day been?'

But the one I find the most interesting, and culturally relevant, is how they talk about sex. And this is a topic that a lot of people talk about - from a young age. and it's not just because I am working with a group that works on HIV/AIDS.

So - people say 'to play sex' instead of 'to have sex'.
I am curious if this is how it is said in Luganda as well. If it is, I think it is very informative of a lot of issues surrounding HIV. If you look at sex as a game, as playing, then this helps to explain why kids want to have sex, and think that they should. it's a game. this is why so many young people start 'playing' sex early.

This is just my thought. I haven't really looked into it very well. But I find it really interesting.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Paid or Unpaid?

I have a slight conundrum going on in my head. There are a lot of people here that work, work, work, and don’t get paid. They are supposed to get paid, but it just doesn’t happen, and they keep working. Is it in the hopes that someday they will get paid? Is it because they have a job, and that means something, even if they don’t get paid?


Let me give you an example. Our neighbor (we have a compound of four houses/apartments) is a Spanish woman married to a Ugandan man. They have 3 boys. They’ve been living here for about 2 years, and have spent the last 15 years between Spain, the UK and Australia. He is a part-time professor at Makerere University. He gets paid twice a year. At the end of each term. She works for a bus company in administration. She hasn’t gotten paid for the last 3 months. She gets a travel stipend of about $5 a day (which, granted, is a lot more than a lot of people make a day anyways). This gets her to and from work, and basically buys food for the day for her family. She continues to work every day. 6 days a week.

No one besides the top 3 people at the company has seen any money besides their daily stipend.

My question is this: Would we stand up to this? What would happen in the States? My thought – the company would close down. They would sell off any assets, the employees would be laid off, and no one would stand for it. They wouldn’t keep working. We couldn’t survive on that. So – why do people stand for it here? Why don’t people stand up to the company? Is it because people are so desperate? Is it because there are other people that would take that job if you left it, even though they know they might not get paid? Is the hope of getting paid eventually enough to sustain people? Is that why things have not progressed here as it has elsewhere in the world? Is it apathy? This really makes me wonder. Our friend who is going through this said that even the $5 a day is nice. It helps her get food for her family. Yes – food is cheaper here, but really?

Celebrity for nothing...

So my biggest pet peeve here is that I am a celebrity for no reason at all. Well, not for no reason, it’s because I’m white. And I hate it!!!!!!!!!!!


When I walk down the street, at least 1 in 8 people screams out the word ‘mzungu’ (white person). I just want to scream back ‘black person’. I remember this from Kenya, but for some reason, it is even more annoying here. The kids are kind-of funny and cute when they do it, but if you acknowledge one of them, then it encourages the other ones to say it as well, hoping that you will wave to them, say hi or smile at them. Doesn’t sound like that big of a deal, right?

Now imagine walking for about 15 minutes to the road to catch a taxi to town. It is a beautiful day, you are enjoying the beautiful green trees plump with mangoes and papayas, trying not to slip in the mud from the rains that morning. Up ahead, there is a group of kids. They start screaming ‘mzungu’ the moment they see you. They keep screaming it as you pass, and you smile and wave, hoping that they will quiet down, and not alert the entire neighborhood to your presence. The couple kids that think that they are the beneficiaries of your wave smile and go silent. The others are sped on in the hopes that you will acknowledge them. And when you don’t the screams go shrill.

And then there are the adults. They are a little more reserved, but when they do say ‘mzungu’ it is in a high girlish voice that sends them into giggles. Everyone is your friend, and everyone expects you to stop and talk with them. If you do stop and talk with them, then they ask you to buy something for them, or give them something. You must have medicine in your bag, can you buy this juice for me, can you find me a sponsor.

I hate to say that I have gotten really good at ignoring people. For the most part, I just pretend that I don’t understand the word mzungu. If they want to get to know me, then they would ask my name. It would be so nice to hear someone call my name. I know I’m asking for a lot. I know that I can’t blame them for being excited that a white person is staying in their area. I know that they don’t see white people often, and that the kids are only following the example of their parents (many of them are egged on by their parents, as their parents are too afraid to do it themselves). Doesn’t mean I have to like it.

Last little bit about this. I was sitting in our office, which is a fairly main thoroughfare into the neighborhood. I was busy working on a grant application on the computer, and all of a sudden I would look up (after ignoring the pleas for the mzungu for 5 minutes) and the office would be surrounded by 10-15 kids. STARING. And in the background would be the older ones, STARING. They would stay there for 10 or 15 minutes. When someone would walk past, many of them tripped, because their eyes were on me the whole time, and not on the muddy crazy road. Really, how long can a person put up with that?

Sorry for the long – had to get that off my chest!

Thursday, March 4, 2010

HIV Sensitization

went to my second HIV sensitization today! basically, it is HIV education and awareness in a school. Today we went to a local secondary school, and worked with the equivalent of 7th graders. As students start school here at different times, and may fall behind because of problems with school fees or not passing exams, the age range in a class like this is huge. The age range today was 12 - 18. The majority of the students are were girls, and they seemed to be younger than the guys.

They were so interested to have an mzungu in their classroom. Lots of giggling and talking, and wanting to ask questions. I helped with a little of the question/answer stuff, but mostly it was just watching today, to see how they do these sessions here.

It seemed like a lot of the questions were the same between here and the US. Can I get HIV by sharing a fork with someone who is HIV+? Can I get it from kissing, or holding hands with someone? There are definitely differences, and it is really interesting here, as there is a lot of talk about being faithful to one partner. Seems similar to the US, until you start to look a little deeper. There are a lot of concurrent relationships here, often out of economic need or desire. What that means, is that a woman may have a husband, but also have a long-term boyfriend as well. She may not get enough support from her husband, so she has a boyfriend that helps her with food or gifts of clothes or jewelry or such. And then the husband also has another long-term girlfriend or two, and so on. What this means, is that this creates basically a super-highway for HIV to travel on. Which is a major reason why HIV spread so quickly here and why the prevalence is so high, as compared to the US and other developing countries outside Africa.

It is really interesting when you see commercials on TV that show how this networking looks, and the slogan 'get off the sexual network'. and then you hear radio announcers talking about the sexual network as well. urging people to think about it before they take their 'side-dish' (girlfriend or boyfriend on the side) out for dinner - to think about the consequences.

Even more interesting is to hear people talk about their relationships, and the lack of trust of partners. No one trusts anyone of the opposite sex here. It is amazing. It is expected that your partner is going to cheat. One person even asked me, when I told her that I had never cheated on Jeremy, 'but don't you ever get annoyed with him?' as if that were a valid explanation and reason to cheat. AMAZING! if all it takes for a person to cheat is to be annoyed with someone or mad at someone, I feel sorry for all these people. Life and relationships are not all pretty. It is wonderful when they are, but a rose also has thorns.

Anyways - I am definitely gaining more insight into the epidemic here, and the social context in which this plays out.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Can you bring someone black?

There was a meeting this morning in the sub-district for community leaders, religious leaders and HIV/AIDS service providers. It was about an hour walk from our office, and RWEYOWA was invited. As we had a lot going on today, the guys decided that Christina and I should go to the meeting, while they dealt with stuff at the office. So - off we went on a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) to the meeting. Took about 30 minutes. Got there, and there were only 2 people there.... and we were 45 minutes late! They were still waiting for the participants. You could tell that our arrival was not expected, and that we threw a little hitch in the plans.

Unfortunately, we don't really understand Luganda (the local language here), and they were discussing what to do with us in Luganda. We asked to confirm that the meeting would be held in English, and they confirmed. Then they asked for our invitation to the meeting. Unfortunately, we had left it at the office. They didn't believe us that we had been invited. I'm sorry, but how else would we have known that there was going to be a meeting in the middle of no where, about HIV/AIDS service in the district at this exact place and time, if we weren't invited?

It caused a lot of problems. Eventually, one woman came to us, and said that there must be another meeting, because this meeting was for local leaders only. We explained about our invitation, the organization that we represent, etc... Well - they weren't having any of it! They said, can't you go and get the invitation and come back!!!! WHAT? And then they said, aren't there others in your office? Can't you go and bring someone with you who is black, then you can stay! WHAT? She repeated it a few times. Can't you bring someone black?

Our response - if you don't want us here, we will leave! and so we walked the hour back to our office.
Once there we confirmed that we were invited, found the invitation, and it did not say anything about a requirement being black! It was a bit frustrating, and interesting. We asked a lot of questions, and made them aware that all the information would be shared with the whole organization. She wouldn't have it. If anyone else (that wasn't white) would have shown up, it wouldn't have been a problem.

So - the lesson? There are a lot of problems that come up when you are a white person working in 'development' of any kind in Africa. just another thing to think about.

Breast of Cow

Was wandering around Kampala yesterday with a couple of the guys from RWEYOWA, picking up supplies, money and such. We went to a stationery store, where I hung out down the street, so the guys didn't get cheated on the price. Just having an 'mzungu' (white person) with you will increase the price by at least 50% or more. After they had finished paying, I walked in, and there was a man selling kabobs of different kinds of meat. Sam, one of the RWEYOWA folks, bought some, and asked if I had ever had their 'red pepper' meat. As I hadn't, it seemed prudent to try it out.

He gave me a piece of what I thought was chicken, and as I bit down on it, it felt and tasted a lot more like a big chunk of grilled fat. I couldn't quite handle it. So - I wandered outside as I was chewing, and proceeded to spit it out like a little kid. Thankfully no one was watching. I had some stuck in my teeth even!

As we were leaving, Sam said, 'That was breast of cow.'

What? Breast of cow? Is that like a chicken breast, but on a cow? Well - if it were, it would be red meat right? so - my only other thought is that it was the udder of a cow. I ate a piece of udder. Wow! Bet there aren't many 'wazungu' out there who can say that!